What is the physical feeling while surfing

Big wave surfing is known as one of the most dangerous sports of all and is being pushed into new dimensions by more and more adrenaline junkies. A sport that one should be born for, a feeling that many describe as an addiction and which can still end in death even with today's professional preparation. A risk that many of our society cannot understand or even grasp, emotions that get under your skin as a spectator. But what is really behind this sport and how the dimensions can be justified for the human body, we explain to you here.

One speaks of a big wave wave when it has reached a height of approx. 6.2 meters, which is comparable to a two-story house. This creates forces of over a ton per cubic meter of water, which in turn means around 1000 liters of water. A wave that is 10 meters high and 20 meters wide results in a weight of approx. 410 tons, which corresponds to approx. 315 small cars in comparison. Dimensions which bring unbelievable forces and which big wave surfers can push between 6 and 15 meters below the surface of the water. Surfers refer to the feeling as "wrestling with the water", a constant twisting and whirling around that easily robs you of your orientation. Here forces act on the body that surfers could not cope with without immense physical and mental preparation. Despite this high-performance training, this rollercoaster ride, which can last up to a minute, in connection with the rough seabed and the reefs, unfortunately always ends fatally.

Proper preparation for this “worst case” scenario is very important and can save lives. This includes various breathing exercises in water and on land, physical requirements, mental strength, important empirical values ​​and a team that is responsible for safety in advance and on site. Big wave surfing is therefore not a “one man show”, whereby the jet skier has an incredibly important role nowadays. Whether you paddle into the wave independently or the jet skier pulls the surfers into the wave after a surfed wave, the jet skier is one of the most important team members. Weather forecasts are incredibly crucial for this, as there are often only small time windows that only appear a few times a year. The preparation for this perfectly surfed big wave is based on years of experience and daily commitment!

Based on these facts that you have not experienced yourself, you can hardly imagine how big these dimensions are and what emotions flow through you when surfing these monster waves. The greater the respect for all these surfers who pursue this passion with full attention. An incredibly growing sport, with more and more female personalities! Whether it is justifiable or not, this sport is gaining unbelievable professionalism and once again shows what unbelievable performance the human body is capable of.

Text: Tanja Angst
Information sources: https: //en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Big_wave_surfing Statement: Maya Gabeira Surfs giant waves at Teahupoo / Red Bull Video

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